Tourist Drive 10
Distance: 143km
Road: 90km is unsealed (gravel).
Some steep and windy sections. Easily accessible by the average family car.
“To travel this diverse hinterland is to understand the courage and tenacity of our pioneer families.”
Tour the rolling hills of Candelo where dairy herds have grazed since white man first came to the area. Explore the steep mountain roads and tall forests of Tantawangalo, where the tumbling waters of Six Mile Creek begin their journey to the ocean, through the hidden valley of Towamba, beneath the spectacular rock face of Mount Jingera.
1. Kameruka estate - re-opening to the public in September 2007 after refurbishment
Sadly this famous historic estate is no longer open to the public. Originally part of the Imlay Brothers lease (1834), the property was eventually bought by the Tooth family of Kent, England, famous for Tooth’s KB (Kents Best) Beer, and flourished under the management of Sir Robert Lucas Tooth who inherited the property in 1864. The Jersey stud was established in 1888, and the manufacture of cheese on the property was the foundation of the cheese industry in the Bega Valley. The estate was developed along English lines, with homes for tenant farmers, a landscaped village, meeting halls, cricket ground, and the planting of many English trees. The First World War put an end to further plans when Sir Robert’s three sons were killed in action. Much of the original estate has been sold in recent years. The famous Kameruka Cheese is now made by the Bega Cheese Co-operative using the original Kameruka recipe.
Over undulating hills this gently winding road follows the course of the Candelo River for 17kms to the township of Candelo.
2. Candelo golf course
Worth noting for future reference. The sign on the right at the bottom of the hill as you continue on past Kameruka gateway indicates the old Candelo Golf Course, where the old fashioned sand greens prove an interesting challenge to most golfers.
3. Candelo
The 100 year old shady trees beside the river and the quaint historic buildings of this sleepy town are reminders of Candelo’s past importance as a major wagon stop. Bullock drays bringing produce and supplies to and from the Monaro high country to the coastal shipping ports rested here overnight, and made necessary repairs to their wagons and harnesses at the local saddler or blacksmith. The everchanging river crossing was checked, for the sandy river bottom held patches of quicksand and the changing water levels could also prove disastrous for a heavily laden wagon.
A fascinating brochure on the history of the town is available from the local shops. Candelo really comes back to life on the first Sunday of each month when the Candelo Markets are held in the park beside the river.
4. Watch for tourist drive sign
Cross the bridge and turn left. Watch for the Tourist Drive sign indicating a right turn onto a gravel road. The road is windy and increasingly hilly as you head inland, with the rolling green hills of the valley giving way to tall eucalypt forests.
5. Tantawangalo Trail rides
Ride the bush trails on a 1,000 acre cattle property and experience this rugged bushland as the pioneers did. Bookings available thru the Merimbula Visitor Information Centre.
6. Tantawangalo
No sign of the original town remains. Today the name Tantawangalo refers to this vast locality and more specifically to the Tantawangalo National Park.
Tantawangalo was originally a horse station of 6,500 acres, established by the Imlay Brothers in the 1830’s. When the township developed in the late 1800’s, horses were still of major importance. Town race meetings were held beside the river, the impressive course having a grandstand, saddling paddock, loose boxes and first-class publicans booth. Although the course was up and down hill and sometimes out of sight of spectators (allowing for ‘unproven interference’) it attracted big crowds and bookmakers travelled from Sydney and Melbourne to attend. Races often fielded as many as 13 horses per race, although one meeting attracted no horses at all. It is reported that there was a good crowd, plus seven out of town bookmakers, all of whom thoroughly enjoyed the day and publicans booth... no-one missed the horses!
7. Six mile creek
In the shadow of Tantawangalo Mountain amidst the hushed quiet of majestic old trees, you will discover Six Mile Creek Picnic Area. Picnic tables, BBQ and toilets make this the perfect place to linger a while. Read the signage in the picnic area and wonder at the courage of our pioneers. Walk the trails along the rocky creek bank and discover the beauty of the tiny native flowers and ferns. Venture across the road for a short walk to the viewing platform, where the water rushes over the rocky riverbed, forming small rock pools which nestle under ferny overhangs, tumbling waterfalls and bubbling cascades.
8. The shire boundary
The change in vegetation from tall old forests to stunted sub-alpine woodlands appears to coincide with the Shire boundary. You will travel through this high country vegetation for the next 15kms, eventually turning back eastwards and, when you re-enter the Bega Valley Shire and head down Mount Darragh, amazingly the vegetation reverts to tall eucalypts almost as if the Shire boundaries had some botanical significance.
9. Wyndham
The truth of the story cannot be guaranteed, however according to local legend the old and very large brick Gaol/Courthouse complex, which also included cells and prisoners’ exercise yard, courtroom, quarters for the visiting judge, extensive stables, and of course, accommodation for the local constable was built by the Government in the early 1900’s. In the wrong town! Tendered for and built at an enormous cost of 12,000 pounds, it was not until it was finished that it was discovered that it should have been built elsewhere, for although a large town at that time, Wyndham hardly deserved such a grand and impressive courthouse. The large town which did, is said to have gained a small wooden structure with just two cells.
The Wyndham Markets are held on the 4th Sunday every month, in the park or the hall, depending on the weather. You’re sure to enjoy this friendly country outing, find a bargain, or hear a good yarn. A range of locally produced goods, unique craft, plants and vegetables always available.
10. Whipstick
Cutting wattle bark to be sent to Sydney to the leather tanning factories provided additional income to many country folk at the turn of the century. In the town of Whipstick in 1914 a group of enterprising Scottish miners built a factory to process wattle bark on site. Machinery was brought from Scotland, immense concrete water tanks installed and a two story factory was built. The factory operated successfully until 1928 when a disastrous bushfire burnt down the whole township. Residents escaped by getting into a dam on the river, however the town and the factory were totally destroyed and never rebuilt. The once thriving town of Whipstick faded into history.
11. Burragate
During the 1840’s the town and surrounding area was a sheep run known by the unlikely name of ‘Pussycat’. In the late 1880’s silver was mined in the district and in 1900 when the first telephone was established, Burragate was a major township. The first message received on the new telephone was of the Relief of Mafeking and the heroism of Lord Baden Powell (founder of the Boy Scouts). The patriotic population including school children and hundreds of miners marched through the street, held impromptu concerts and celebrated well into the night.
12. There’s gold in them hills!
Small pockets of gold were discovered and mined in the hills during the early 1900’s, although the main source was alluvial gold in the streams. Chinese goldminers, in the belief that the alluvial gold had settled in a deep pond below a high waterfall, actually diverted the river from its course, by digging a channel and so bypassing the waterfall. No record is available as to whether they found gold.
13. Towamba
Rocky slopes can be seen through the trees as you descend into the Towamba Valley with the massive rock outcrops of Jingera Mountain overlooking the tiny township. Towamba is a small isolated town, with a pretty river and picturebook scenery. Originally a cattle property, named Stuart, and also once part of the Imlay Brothers’ leasehold, Towamba’s importance as a township reached its peak in the early 1900’s. Molibdonite was mined from the rocky hills of the area in the early 1900’s. It was used to harden steel for guns and machinery. Another industry which faced with the advent of new production methods.
14. Mount Imlay
At the end of Tourist Drive 10, you may wish to turn left onto the Princes Highway and continue for 4.5kms to reach Eden. Mount Imlay which dominates the southern coastal view is the 866 metre high mountain which can be glimpsed through the trees. The 3km walking track to the top is steep and rough, but provides views encompassing Mallacoota to Narooma and inland to the tablelands. The access road from the Princes Highway is 14km south of Eden. The National Park office in Merimbula or local Tourist Information Centres can supply maps.
The Imlay Brothers - Peter, Alexander and George.
Although in the area for less than 20 years, these three Scotsmen explored extensively and established varied pastoral pursuits always remaining well respected by both the new colonists and Aboriginal population. Continued next page...
During the early 1830’s they held under lease the majority of land in the Bega Valley and the Monaro. The name of many geographical places reflect their influence on the South Coast.
Progressive pioneers, they pursued interests in whaling, horse breeding, cattle, sheep, trade and shipping and initially prospered. Their ventures ended tragically however. First a drought followed by recession caused extreme hardship. Then Doctor George Imlay, who was suffering from a terminal and painful disease, suicided near his Bega property in December 1846. Alexander, although a young man, died of natural causes just 3 months later. Peter Imlay left the colony and settled in New Zealand where he contributed much to that country’s early development. His home in New Zealand is now an historic monument.